Mathieu Maynadier successfully climbs the south face of Meru

After a first attempt in 2019, Mathieu Maynadier, Simon Gietl and Roger Schaeli succeeded in the first ascent of the south face of Meru South (6,660 m), in northern India.

The abundance of snow had the advantage of allowing the climbers to reach the base of the wall on skis. But the climb from Camp 1 to Camp 2 was dangerous from an avalanche point of view and the path was strewn with crevasses! The climb was not easy, but the trio finally reached the summit ridge of Meru on May 13, 2023, after having carved a beautiful line on the south face: Gold Fish (800 m, M6+, A1).

Story:
May 11 was the first day of good weather, so the three climbers set off from Base Camp directly to Camp 2. Mathieu had to fight diarrhea that day and it took a lot of courage to reach Camp 2.

On May 12, Simon and Roger dropped the ropes and carved a route through the steep snowfield. Mathieu recovered so well that day that the three of us were able to start the climb. A very long day lay ahead of us. We started at 3 a.m. and the day only ended in the evening at 11 p.m. with headlamps. We were able to pitch our tent on a spectacular mushroom cloud just before midnight at the base of the last hollow.

After a relatively short night, little sleep, and cold temperatures, it was time to set off again the next morning. We still didn't know if we would find a way under the terminal block and the very steep terrain.
Finally, after a peak, we discovered a large ice tunnel for one of the most original peaks we could have imagined. In three spectacular pitches, the route we chose took us over the ridge and, in a bitter wind, 200 meters up a steep slope of snow and ice to the summit of Meru's main ridge.

Then the descent continued all day, reaching the base of the wall in the late afternoon.